
NEWSDAY - Restless restaurateur Tom Schaudel takes a leisurely passagiatta at A Mano. The latest recipe: uncomplicated food, easygoing wine, affordable prices - the osteria theme localized. This popular, sun-hued joint marks a style shift for the perpetual-motion, risk-taking, hands-on Schaudel. His current portfolio features cornerstone CoolFish in Syosset and three-star Jedediah's at the handsomely restored Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport. Over the years, Schaudel has juiced up local dining with sharp, contemporary spots, among them the departed Lemongrass in Roslyn, 107 Forest Ave. in Locust Valley and PassionFish in Woodbury. Time for a little break in the action.
THE BEST
Ricotta-stuffed, fried zucchini flowers deliver a delectable mouthful of the season. And the kitchen turns very homey with "slowly simmered meatballs" with ricotta in tomato-basil sauce. Satur Farm beets star in the roasted golden-beet salad, accented with slowly roasted fennel and Catapano Farm goat cheese. It's equaled by a refreshing salad of watermelon and roasted corn. Airy, house-made ricotta gnocchi with corn, fava beans, tomatoes and mushrooms allow the frill of white truffle oil. The house lasagna kicks in with sausage spiciness, less heft and is worth sampling - but be warned: They don't do half-portions. Local flounder gets a professional saute, with capers and concentrated "8 hour tomatoes." Berkshire Farms pork tenderloin: boosted by a pancetta-and white-bean ragu. Nutty Sardinian cheese drizzled with honey and paired with ripe figs is a molto finale. The obligatory dessert for Schaudel vets, the "chocolate bag" of ice cream and excess, arrives as il sacchetto di cioccolato. It's still fun. The bittersweet chocolate terrine comes close.
THE REST
Standard, seared yellowfin tuna despite a scoop of caponata; dull crab cake, even with a tonnato touch; over-orchestrated pasta carbonara; pasty risotto undermining grilled diver scallops; limp peach crostata, so-so cheesecake; so-what butterscotch-banana pudding.
THE BOTTOM LINE
A good summer vacation.
Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 7/31/08.
Hours
Dinner every day, starting at 5 p.m. Lunch, Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Reservations recommended weekdays, necessary weekends.
Click HERE for our review in Newsday.
DAN'S PAPERS - There's a new flavor on the North Fork. Located in Mattituck, aMano is the newest addition to the North Fork's eclectic restaurant scene. aMano, meaning "by hand" in Italian, is the motto behind the business. The "by hand" touch can be seen and felt in every aspect of the restaurant from the hostess to the owners.
This Italian bistro is latest brainchild of chef-restaurateur Tom Schaudel of Jedediah's in Jamesport and Coolfish in Syosset, and his partner Adam Lovett. Lovett is the general manager. With more than a decade of restaurant experience in the Hamptons at Passion Fish and in Manhattan at Vespa, Lovett said it was time to try his hand on the North Fork, "The town has really changed, and they're ready for us."
The restaurant is located in the space formerly occupied by the "Red Door" on Main Road in Mattituck. The new renovations to the restaurant have really opened the space up. New lighting makes for brighter more comfortable dining, but it still sets an elegant and upscale tone. The eatery seats 60 people inside. And the newly remodeled outdoor stone patio offers dining for 28.
The fairly priced cuisine features locally grown fresh produce, and some of the finer crafted wines from both the North and South Forks. Locally caught fish also make up a large part of the menu. "There is a seasonality out here you need to consider during the year, we're going to concentrate on Long Island's products," said chef Schaudel. To me the ingredients used to make the cuisine can really make or break a meal. Schaudel's delectable dishes blend fresh dairy from Catapano Farms in Peconic and Mecox Bay dairy in Bridgehampton, with local vegetables, Long Island Duck, and local flounder.
The portions are generous, but not overwhelming. One of the most memorable dishes on the menu is an appetizer, the BBQ smoked Octopus served with Ceci salad and lobster oil. The dish is a flavor explosion and a real eye catcher. I've never seen it served quite like this before. The menu also boasts unique deserts such as Reggiano Custard with figs and black truffle honey. "Forget about the Old Homestead in Manhattan, we have a new favorite in Mattituck," is what a stuffed Luciano Schiff of Manhattan said about his dining experience. Kyla Primiano of Mattituck said she's going to try and come back as often as possible, "it exceeds expectations, it was terrific."
On the wine list you'll find reds, white's and rose from only two regions, Long Island and Italy. Along with varietals from Borghese, Martha Clara, Shinn, Paumanok, Osprey, and Jamesport you'll find a private signature chardonnay with the aMano label. The extensive local list also includes the critically acclaimed Chenin Blanc from Paumanak, which happens to be a personal favorite of mine.
Unlike the "Red Door," aMano will be open for lunches. They also plan to serve a late night light fare menu. They are trying to give the area's restaurant staff a place to grab good food and wine after they're shifts. "We want to focus on the people who really appreciate food and wine," Levett said. The late night menu will feature gourmet pies from a Wood Oven Pizza stove. Waiter Eric Muller summers in Mattituck. Eric says "It's nice to have a place for restaurant people to go and just hang out when we get off."
One of the topics of conversation among the knowledgeable and outgoing staff was who's handprint graces the menu and the sign outside. If you want to know you'll have to stop by, but come hungry!
Reviewed by Henry J. Salmaggi
Click HERE for our review in Dan's Papers
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